Well, if you've been watching this blog closely, then you'll have noticed that there hasn't been much activity for several...ahem....weeks (oops!). Now, I could throw in a few excuses here; such as laziness, procrastination, expensive internet fees, busy schedule...., but who really wants to hear excuses ;) Here's the low-down on my last week in New Zealand....the land of adventure, Maoris, and the long white cloud :)
From the hustle and bustle of Queenstown, I hopped on another Kiwi Experience bus and headed from the west coast of the South island to the northern end of the East coast: the town of Kaikoura. This bus trip took about 10 hours as we bypassed Christchurch so as not to add to the confusion: us being a bunch of camera-happy tourists who can't understand fully the devastation of the quake and who mindlessly eat and drink the scarce resources (and not to mention use the toilet paper!). So, although Christchurch was originally supposed to be the highlight of my trip, as I would have got to see my friend Anita (who got through the quake fine, thank goodness!), we instead detoured and headed to the next stop: Kaikoura and dolphins!
Now, I feel that I'm pretty good about being optimistic with the weather, but I can admit that I almost drowned in the downpour of rain that was Kaikoura for nearly the whole two nights and days that we spent there. It's a pity because I really feel that this town flourishes in the sunshine; but even so, some amazing things happened there. First off, I SWAM WITH WILD DOLPHINS!! We were up at 445 am (ugh!) and it was freezing, but oh so magical! The boat operators tell you to make as much movement and noise as possible because these dolphins are not trained to come to you....YOU must entertain THEM! If they like you, then they will continue to frolick with you. Well, this 'entertainment' of mine was exhausting (!!) but was so worth the pay off! They'd glide by you and then begin to circle, and if you could keep up with those circles then they would go faster and faster until you were absolutely dizzy and disoriented; and then they'd slow down and look you straight in the eye before dashing off into the murkiness of the distant ocean. I'd often (against the wishes of the boat operators) try to touch the dolphins (who wouldn't?!) but then as I realized that these creatures were much more in their natural environment than I was and with a flick of their tails could shoot a thousand metres away (a possible exaggeration), I thought, "What am I trying to prove to myself?" and then sat back and enjoyed the interaction; with immitations of dolphin squeals erupting from my snorkel.
The rest of the time in Kaikoura was spent dodging large raindrops from overhang to overhang and meandering through little shops and checking out menu prices. Worthy mention goes to the Strawberry Tree Irish Pub where the mahogany decor was so saturated with the memories of its drunken patrons that it smelled sweetly of revelry and merriment. And the potato and leek soup wasn't too bad either. Also in Kaikoura, as a few of us waited out the rain in the hostel while watching Lord of the Rings 2 (an intuitive experience, mind you, to watch any of the films of the trilogy while actually IN New Zealand), we experienced a small earthquake (!!!) Only about 5 seconds long and nothing to really write home about, but it was the first of it's kind for me! (we were told it was an earthquake and not an aftershock because Kaikoura does not share the same fault line as Christchurch). Let me just say that I have a whole lot of respect for earthquakes and what the people of Christchurch have had to go through in recent days. This small, tiny, i would guess non-existent blip on the rictor scale which we experienced that day actually shook the house AND the couch which we were sitting on!! IMAGINE!! And this was nothing compared to the quake a few weeks earlier!! Respect, man. Respect.
As we left Kaikoura and headed to the Picton Ferry the next day, we enjoyed several viewings of seals on the rocks (ya gotta love the little barks that the baby seals give to their parents!). These seals look so utterly pathetic trying to get around on the rocks that I had to remind myself of how versatile they are in their own natural aquatic environment. After the ferry back to the North Island, I stayed for several days in Wellington. On the way south on the bus, I had stayed only from 7 pm to 7 am in this wonderful city; consequently seeing absolutely nothing except the hostel bar (in which Stine and I were the only ones dancing, lol!). This time around I took a few days to relax and really experience the city. And Wellington was fabulous! A boardwalk full of active residents and equally restless tourists surrounds the grand expanse of harbour, and the city is littered with bohemians, government officials, and backpackers alike....all living in harmony. (awww). I visited the Te Papa museum (NZ's largest museum, boasting 6 levels of artifacts and interactive wonderment). Here I spent 3 and a half hours perusing the facts and features mainly highlighting the Maori and European interaction and even THEN I missed some exhibits! The photography exhibit (I believe it was Brian Bryce) was the highlight for me; as well as relocating my lost camera at the lost-and-found (thank-god my brain-dead ways of losing my things is supplemented by kind souls who return them) :) Cuba Street had a fantastic artsy feel, with Fidel's Cafe (a bohemian-esque cafe with outdoor, undercover seating, camo-mesh walls, bright colors, good music, and delicious carrot cake) being a highlight for me. On the way to Wellington is also where I met my two favorite dance buddies: Yuval from Israel and Dave from England. If you've ever seen my dance moves then you can appreciate the scene of the three of us dancin' the night away and ignoring the gawks and looks of bewilderment from the innocent bystanders.
Alas, the final days came and the bus moved steadily up from Wellington, with a brief stop in Taupo (where I had a creepy run-in with a german man who owned a second-hand book store....after an hour of chatting I left the store with his psychic assurance that I would be fine with regards to poisonous creatures in Australia and a growing concern that I had just spoken with the devil), and then up through Rotorua and back to Auckland. This bustling metropolis which I had already visited twice on my kiwi trip, was not too much in my books: the outlying suburbs such as Parnell peaked some interest, but I couldn't even muster up the money or the fascination to hitch it to the top of the skytower and take a look around (what a boring backpacker I am!). On the other hand, I took a ferry out to Waiheke island (about 30 minutes from Auckland) and stumbled upon beauty and wine in the heart of hippy bohemia. Waiheke has a charm that is similar to what I imagine Byron Bay will have: long, white sand beaches (with optional nude sections), friendly locals, brilliantly-colored buildings, and WINE!! I spent my day doing yoga and sunning myself at the rather isolated Palm Beach, then taking the local bus back to the main town and walking over to the closest winery (which, at this point in time, I have forgotten the name of....dammit! It started with a 'c' though, haha) ....perhaps a little too much wine was drunk. I do remember the barman taking pity on my lonely travels and giving me a few extra tastings along with some very interesting wine knowledge. I then stumbled along to the next winery where I realized that I had planned my day incorrectly and should have done the wineries first as they were all getting ready to close. Oh well, it was a beautiful walk through the scenic backtrails from wine country to the ferry. After another two nights in Auckland I said good bye to Aotearoa (Maori for 'land of the long white cloud), and all the adventures which I had had there. Five weeks of bus tour was just enough to get an introduction to NZ; but I feel like, with my own means of travel, I could stay in this green and gorgeous adventure country (pathetically free of ANY dangerous animals, excluding the nasty sand flies) for several months. There's always time ;)
And so, on March 14th, I flew on to my second destination country: FIJI.